The surf life

Being a surfer is not easy. You must get out of bed early some days and walk a little distance to the beach. If the waves are not good then all is for nothing. Your bed may be cold by this time. Or, perhaps, the tide is wrong and you must wait until noon and what are you to do until then? Work? Certainly not! No you must wander around and socialize, check your Facebook and twitter accounts and post a pic or two to instagram...I tell you, life is not easy. Finally when noon rolls around and you have had your espresso and the tide is right and you check the waves, Lo and behold they are small and the wind is onshore...oh the humanity! No being a surfer is not easy. Now you must fill the rest of the day with reading a book, typing a blog, or having a fancy cigarette and losing yourself on a walk. I mean its totally unproductive and good for nothing this society celebrates. It is tough knowing all your old friends are working diligently towards owning that new house and vehicle, furiously trying to keep a pace with fashion and technology and mainstream media, (however spun and delusional it is) whilst they lament their very lives and wish and dream for what is practically and readily available If only they didn't consume so much. If only they knew happiness without possesion, without material identification or social stature. Yes, life is not easy being a surfer. Our stature is so low some even use the adverb "bum" after our title referring to our seemingly lazy slothlessness. Skiers get the same rap but what those others don't know and what you must understand is that being a surfer is difficult because it uses up all your energy, so much infact that even when you are lying back in your hammock you are using energy just repairing the muscles you used to catch waves the day before. It is almost unfair how we are treated considering the difficulties of being a surfer. Having to fly to exotic locations with dangerous passages on our ways and never having our own gardens to fall back on but having to eat out for almost every meal. And just yesterday I went to the corner store to get a bottle of water and all they had was beer! Let me tell you; being a surfer is not easy.