Wednesday, December 02, 2009
100th post written in under 2 mins
Last night I spent on the streets of San Salvador, El Salvador with a back pack to heavy to run with and a surfboard to awkward to hide....I was at the whim of one of the most notoriously dangerous cities in the world. It was fucking scary!
Monday, November 02, 2009
Pete Devries wins O'neil Comp
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Tofino Sunrise
Here I am in Tofino. Water: 12 degrees C / Air: 6 degrees C
It was a good morning session for me. Really hard to wake up but nirvana in the water. No time, no pain, no bad stuff. Only the eternity of a moment in the Ocean with a few fun rides in the mix. Three days steady now and my body is feeling the results. It feels as though I have been in a washing machine, the results of too much surfing after so much rest and relaxation. I think it is the nicest day I've seen in Tofino so I'm out to enjoy it...The old walk and sit. Have a good day!
Saturday, October 17, 2009
On the road again...
Life is interesting when you live on the road.
It is refreshing when you spend only two months in each place.
It is enchanting when you are welcomed in each place and make companions and share experiences with those new friends and saddening when you leave. It is fascinating when you have the least amount of "things" of anyone you know and you get rid of half of it and pack it in a bag. It is stimulating leaving relative security and walking into an unknown world of unknown possibilities with no plan and no final destination. It is all of these adjectives to observe but it is a life to live. I happen to have a spirit that wanders and my physical body and mentality has to go with that....and I tell myself almost everyday; "It is our society and lifestyles that are Fucked...I'm just being honest" Life is hard because we want to own water, heat, food, shelter and just about everything we can, including people, when for hundreds of thousands of years we shared and worked for ourselves for these things that the world once and still offers for relative freedom. Every shelter can be palace, every morsel a meal and every domestic task of monumental importance. Make this so and you will be a warrior.
Wednesday, October 07, 2009
Tuesday, October 06, 2009
Sunday, October 04, 2009
Friday, October 02, 2009
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Love lie
Tonight I got drunk and started to smile. I didn't know i was smiling until someone asked why i was smiling...I guess I'm happy I shrugged. But maybe I just wanted to be happy. Who knows, I was drunk.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Monday, August 10, 2009
Thursday, July 02, 2009
Mothers great gift
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Yeah, 2009 done Suckas!
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